(23.04) 2016

Documentation: Hendrik Schneider

SAMUEL Guì YANG takes Andrej Zulawski’s Possession (1981) as a point of departure for AW16. The scene is set by Anna (Isabelle Adjani), a complex and mercurial character with a fleeting sense of identity. Notions of performance and play are addressed by Mulian opera references – the duality of two characters coexisting in the same costume, bound to wrestle one another. A twisted singularity, mirrored in the construction of the silhouette.

A refocus on the Chinese background: Year of the Monkey’s motifs dive into personal identity, further explored in the message delivered.

Recurring techniques of quilting and modularity enhance the paradox – stiff and unstructured, explorative and self-referencing. The developing research into rubber as a wearable media. Rubber-fused spandex and netting take place in traditional outerwear silhouettes; knitted and crocheted rubber yarns mirror the tension of the body. A sleek surface of marble prints and metallic-pigment dyed rubber.